“We drove through the night heading further west to discover more wines, and with a harvest early the next morning. It was around 10 p.m. and the air swirling about the open windows smelled of spices and warm bread. Our driver suddenly slowed down, and I noticed wooden cabin-like stalls lining the road every hundred feet. Tungsten bulbs filled the stalls with yellow light, shining on women in flour-stained aprons working around tall ceramic structures called tone ovens.”
